Odds and ends
from eastern lands
Ukraine, 8. – 21.7. 2007
*****


Thursday 12 – Tuesday 17 / Days Five – Ten


A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words...

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Solnechnogorskoe coast. Perfect place for swimming at day time and picnicking under starry skies at night. Favourite haunt of jellyfish (medusas) – sometimes you bump into the small transparent beasts all the time while swimming around. The most beautiful one contained a light violet pattern inside, in the shape of a four-leaved clover.





Beach at Solnechnogorskoe coast. No lifeguards, no safety regulations. Madmen on water scooters dash here and there among the bobbing heads of swimmers. Big boats, offering sea rides, park right on the beach, with the ear-tearing sound of crashed pebbles. Their methods of persuasion when hunting for customers don’t lack originality – a male voice drifting from the loudspeaker repeats over and over, in an almost pleading tone: „Come aboard, take a sea ride with us... It’s so nice, it’s so healthy... and it’s cheaper than a bottle of vodka...“ It obviously works as in no time there is a long queue of folks in swimming suits, ready to board the ship and experience the intoxicating and yet alco-free pleasures...




A yacht. A very provocative thing when it is anchored just a short way from the shore, gently rocking there on the waves day by day, night by night. Something to serve as a goal of daring swims, something to be explored and inspected. And when you make it there and discover that its flag bears a skull and crossed guns image with the motto: „Special Forces – Mess with the best, die like the rest“, you even feel properly rewarded for your effort.




Yalta. A charming mix of poshness and picturesque street life. From a seaside promenade with luxurious cafes right to an open air market where you can have your portrait sketched or your future divined in a couple of minutes. A place of contrasts with a statue of Lenin proudly looking at McDonald’s. A town for all tastes.







Elvish garden in the heart of Livadia, short way from Yalta. With mysterious passages overgrown with thick vegetation, green-barked trees, curious squirrels and giant pine cones. While all visitors explore the famous Livadia Palace and study the chairs on which the Big Three sat and plotted the course of history, roaming the surrounding park offers much more impressive experience. A shortcut from our world to Tolkien’s realm.




Massandra Palace. A picturesque building on a hill above the town of Yalta, surrounded by an equally picturesque garden with roses, sequoias, sphinxes and dragons. At one time the tsar’s palace, at another time Stalin’s dacha. Presently, one of Yalta’s places of interest, but only for those with enough patience to search for it. If you follow the dubious white arrows painted on the street, they’ll point you to a path which becomes more and more narrow... more and more overgrown with greenery... until it finally disappears in a little forest and you are left to your own devices. But if you wander around for a while, exploring the city’s periphery, inhabited at places, deserted at places, you’ll finally get there. Perhaps it’s an unconventional way to protect the palace from overcrowding.





Beware! Toxic!



Sudak. A town with a magnificent medieval fortress soaring above the cliffs and sea waves. And with cunning businessmen. How else to explain trees wrapped in colorful ribbons so that they resemble merry mummies, and next to them a little stall where you can buy a ribbon of your choice to add it to the rest with your very own hands? A clear proof that it’s possible to sell anything to trusting people.







A pint of Guinness from the Crimean shore...







Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4

Part 5




text and photos 
© Zuzana, 2007